The Great Indian Odyssey

Cricket still on a high at Chail

indianodyssey — Tue, 10 Nov 2009 02:39:50 +0000

With Twenty20 and IPL hellbent on pulling down the gentleman’s sport to new lows, where does one go if they want to experience the highs of cricket?

2250 metres above sea-level and dotted with pine and deodar trees, Chail itself is a a pretty, quieter hillstation 45 kms away from Shimla. For those on a tight schedule, it’s usually just Shimla and Kufri, 16 kms away. Those who have more time and less tolerance for the crowds of the more popular destinations could do well to spend a day checking out this summer capital of the Maharaja of Patiala, Bhupinder Singh. When the Britishers imposed an exile on him from Shimla, he chose Chail to build his palace.

Besides the Maharaja’s palace (now a luxury resort), tourists also pay a visit to Sidh Baba ka Mandir, a temple nearby. There is also the Military School that is housed in the heritage buildings built by the Maharaja. But what really catches everyone’s attention is the cricket ground, the world’s highest! Built in 1893, the ground is far removed from the crazy, money spinning version of the gentleman’s game that we see today. Also used for polo matches, the ground is never without action – if nothing, there are the odd groups of tourists who either stand and stare at the flat green patch in the mountains, or even try out an impromptu game.

Check out Chail for the peace and quiet, for the towering mountainscape, for the heritage buildings and the possibilities of long walks around. But if you still want to see a setting for cricket without the hustle-bustle thrust upon the game by rampant, ugly commercialism and money-power, the ground at Chail can still show you glimpses of how a classic game of cricket can still be played today.

Kuldhara – a ghost tale from Jaisalmer

indianodyssey — Mon, 26 Oct 2009 18:34:36 +0000

Beyond the fort and the sand dunes, the folk tunes and the camel safaris, there is a Jaisalmer experience that stays back with you long after you have left it.

The golden fort lit up at night

The golden fort is a classic in its own right. Just a picture says it all. The endless sand dunes are no less expressive.

But, there is one spot 18 kms from Jaisalmer that tells a story that you are not likely to forget in a hurry. It’s a village called Kuldhara. Rather, it was a village. Today, all that remains there is huge heaps of bricks and the odd tourist who weaves through the silent, dusty lanes of this once lively settlement.

The ruins at Kuldhara

For seven centuries, the Paliwal Brahmins had made Kuldhara their home – one of 84 villages where they flourished in their heydays.

Cut to the early 19th century…when, in 1825, their idyllic world began to fall apart. The story goes that the stunningly beautiful daughter of the village chief fell prey to the immodest eyes of Salim Singh, the prime minister of the king of Jaisalmer. The whole village knew that the diwan was all-powerful, ruthless and unyielding. So much so that they were certain that they would have to make one of two decisions. Either surrender the girl to the lecherous minister or else be continuously tormented by him and face his threats of extracting multiple taxes from the villagers.

The brave, self-respecting village folks unanimously took the decision. They packed up all their belongings, abandoned their homes and left Kuldhara overnight. They left behind not just the four walls of their homes but also a curse. That anyone who tried to live in the village would perish. Since then, the area remained uninhabited. The crumbling brick structures span out towards all directions and a ghostly silence is all that lives on there. There are still some double storeyed houses that are intact and the awestruck tourist can well visualise how life went on in Kuldhara, ages ago.

Bricks are all that remain...

The government today maintains the ruins as a heritage site. A walk through the village is akin to wandering onto the sets of a ghost movie. Only, this one is for real. Any one who is planning a visit to Jaisalmer should keep aside a few hours to catch this haunted setting in the eerie desert backdrop.

Getting there: Jaisalmer is well connected by air (Jodhpur, 285km is the nearest airport), rail (regular trains from North and West) and by road. Kuldhara is 18kms towards the west and can be accessed by a cab from Jaisalmer.

The Spiderman of Chitradurga

indianodyssey — Fri, 23 Oct 2009 08:59:45 +0000

To be able to share the spotlight with the place you belong to is no mean feat. More so, if the place has for its centrepiece a magnificent 350 year old fort sprawled out over eight kilometres, replete with nineteen gateways, a palace, many mosques and temples among other things, and all this padded with the charisma of one of India’s most powerful sultans. Despite all that, Chitradurga still languishes as an under-visited tourist destination in Karnataka. In a statistical sense, its tourist-worthiness just doesn’t hold up against that of a Coorg or a Chikmagalur; a Mysore or a Hampi. Every Bangalorean worth his two-day weekend would rather rush to one of those hillstations; and those who are visiting from further afield don’t want to miss out on a fabulous palace or a World Heritage site.

Entrance to the fort

Some of the blame has to be taken by the town itself. Besides being short on infrastructure and not being marketed well, Chitradurga is a small but congested place – unattractive and with little else of interest other than the Fort itself.

But then, the Fort is a winner. And it’s not just Tipu Sultan‘s brand of heroism that gives it the edge. Impressive

in its location and staggering in its proportions, this is a piece of history (and geography!) that should take nothing less than an hour and a half to do justice to.

Within the Fort complex

But what or who is sharing the spotlight with it – as this post started off by saying? It’s none other than a modest, wiry, 23-year old called Jyothiraju. So how is it that he is rubbing shoulders with the Chitradurga Fort for popularity? And just what is it that he is doing that most people who visit him would remember the Fort by him more than the great Tipu Sultan?

Shy and retiring, “Spiderman” or “Monkeyman” – as he is called locally – is a stunner. With just his bare hands and unimaginable levels of daring and skill, Raju climbs all over the Fort. And all this without the luxury of a safety net or a cord.

Preparing for the climb

Raju, a Tamilian by birth, came to Chitradurga when he was about 10. After knocking about a bit, he found his true calling and, since then, has ‘climbed’ up the popularity charts steadily. Besides winning a few competitions and having his feats lauded on the internet and on TV, he is a big hit with tourists. What really marks his love and sincerity for what he does is the fact that he can’t be bothered with accepting anything from onlookers – leaving his team members to handle all that.

Mission accomplished...

So, Chitradurga is not really all that nondescript a location. For one, the Fort is big and strong and something you will confine to memory. As for the other star attraction, the Spiderman is bigger, stronger and even less likely to be ever forgotten!.

Travel notes:

Chitradurga town is about 200 kms from Bangalore, down NH4. If driving, it’s an easy four hour stretch down the NH4, once you manage to get past the irritatingly impossible exit from Bangalore through Dasarahalli and Peenya.

Accommodation options are not aplenty. Save a handful that have acceptable standards, there is not much to choose from.

Hungry and happy in the Walled City – Dining in Old Delhi

indianodyssey — Thu, 22 Oct 2009 18:11:57 +0000

Hungry in the capital city? Thankfully, there is opportunity in such adversity.

And to seize on that opportunity, all you need to do is head to Old Delhi. Besides being home to a World Heritage site and a centuries-old marketplace, this area is often visited to check out the Red Fort and the Chandni Chowk. But if these attractions still give you time to address your hunger pangs, there are three distinct options that have to be checked out. These are no less attractions in their own right. And absolutely finger lickin’ good ones, at that!

First up is the historic Paranthe Wali Gali. This is one walk no food-respecting gourmet would want to miss out on. Off Chandni Chowk, this nondescript bylane is a veritable treasure trove of paranthas of every conceivable type. Said to have been visited by legendary names like Jawaharlal Nehru to the modern day celebrities, the no fuss eatery joints here offer over 50 different types of paranthas – and it’s an all vegetarian affair. The humble paranthas that are found widely elsewhere take on a multitude of interesting avatars – potatoes, cauliflower, radish, paneer, dal, pudina and many more…hotter, tastier and ever so popular.

The second stop has to be the most historic. Ever wondered what the Mughal emperors had for lunch and dinner? Now, how about tasting that very same fare? Yes, one of the most popular spots in the walled city has to be Karim’s. Just behind the imposing Jama Masjid is this age-old favourite of Dilliwalas. Started by a descendant of the chef to the Mughal emperor, Karim’s is truly a non-vegetarian’s paradise. With chicken and mutton dishes named tastefully after the Mughal rulers, the flavour is unbeatable. Such is the fan following of Karim’s that the outlet could not help opening 3 more branches in Delhi.

Last, but not the least, is a perennial favourite of the Delhi palate. The best of North Indian cuisine is what Moti Mahal stands for. From the ethnically turned out, turban and Pathani suit wearing waiters to the delectable range of food from the Dal to the Tandoori items, this is one restaurant that has been a part of over five generations of Dilliwalas. Situated in Daryaganj main road, this too has seen many legendary names dining here. And Kundan Lal Gujral, the man behind Moti Mahal, is no less a legend than this famed landmark.

So, the next time you are in the Old Delhi area (or for that matter, anywhere in Delhi) and are famished, you know where to head for.